Why Hong Kong's iconic neon lights have all but disappeared

Introduced in the 1920s, neon signs quickly proliferated and became a symbol of Hong Kong, gracing every street corner of the densely ... TravelWhyHongKong’siconicneonlightshaveallbutdisappearedBerniceChanJul21,2019Introducedinthe1920s,neonsignsquicklyproliferatedandbecameasymbolofHongKong,gracingeverystreetcornerofthedenselypopulatedcity.Butnowadays,mostofthoselightshavebeenreplacedbycheaperandmoreenergy-efficientLEDs.Inthepasttwodecades,upto90%ofHongKong’sneonsignshavedisappeared.WuChi-kaiisoneofthecity’slastremainingneonsignmakers.WuChi-kaiathisworkshopinHongKong./Photo:RoyIssa/SCMP“Thirtyyearsago,whenHongKong’seconomywasitspeak,allthesignsandstagelightsweremadewithneon,”Wusays.Duringthegoldenageofthe1970s,busythoroughfareslikeNathanRoadandLockhartRoadwereplasteredwithneonsignssuspendedabovestreets,overlappingintoacollageofcolors.TheyformedthedistinctlookofHongKongthatwouldserveastheinspirationforbackdropsinsci-fimovieslikeBladeRunner.“OnNathanRoad,youwouldseesignsthatwerehorizontalandvertical,”Wurecalls.“It’sveryparticulartoHongKong.I’vebeenabroad—andnottomanyplaces—butfromwhatI’veseen,neonsignsareusuallyhungverticallyandattachedtoawall.Theydon’tstickouthorizontally.”NeonsignsalongNathanRoadinHongKong./Photo:ShutterstockThesignswereareflectionoftheboomtime’saudacious“biggerisbetter”mentality.Businessescompetedfiercelytomarketthemselveswiththeboldestsigns,andneononescouldlastforseveralyearsbeforetheyrequirerepairs.“Thesignsmeanteverythingtothem.”CardinChan,directoroftheHongKongNeonHeritageProjectShare“Whensomeonestartedabusiness,theywouldwantthebusinesstogoonforgenerationstocome,”saysCardinChan,directoroftheHongKongNeonHeritageProject,whichisworkingtopreservethecity’sneonindustry,“andthesignsmeanteverythingtothem.”Thedeclineofneonbeganaround2000,Wusays,whentheownersofneonsignworkshopsstartedtakingorderstomainlandChina,wheretheycouldbemadeforcheaper.ThiswasalsoaroundthesametimethatLEDlightswereintroduced.Comparedtoneon,LEDsare10%cheaper,use5to10timeslesspower,andthey’reeasiertochangeout.Theiraffordabilityandenergyefficiencymeanttheyquicklysurpassedneoninpopularity.LEDsarenowusedtomimictheeffectofneon./Photo:ShutterstockAddinginsulttoinjury,theHongKonggovernmentalsobeganputtingrestrictionsonsigns,takingdownthosethatweredeemedasafetyrisk.Thishasledtotheremovalof3,000unauthorizedsignboardsperyearsince2006.TheworkshopwhereWuworkedonceemployedaroundsixpeopletodesignsignsandanotherfiveorsixtoinstallthem.Nowadays,it’smostlyjusthimintheshop.Hekeepsbusywithsmallrequests,makingsignsforstorewindowsandhelpinglocalartistswithprojectsthatincorporateneon.“Whydopeoplefeelliketherearenoneonsignmakersleft?Becausenoonewantstodoit,”Wusays.“InHongKong,therearemaybethreeorfourguyswhohavework.Therestonlyhaveworkacoupledaysamonth.”WuChi-kaiathisworkshopinHongKong./Photo:RoyIssa/SCMPDespitethelargereductionofneonsignsinHongKong,Wuisstilloptimisticaboutthatthelightswon’tbefadingcompletelyanytimesoon.“Idon’tthinkHongKong’sneonculturewillgoaway,”hesays.“Aslongaspeoplewantneon,theycangetitdone.Whenthatdemanddisappears,thentherewillbenopointincontinuingthiswork.Buttherewillalwaysbepeoplewhoneedneon.”AdaptedfromanarticlefirstpublishedintheSouthChinaMorningPost.BerniceChanBerniceChanisaseniorwriterontheCulturedesk.ShesamplesmorethanhershareofdishesaroundHongKongandwritesaboutpeopleandissuesthatmakeanimpactonthecity.HongKongArtisansReadMoreGOLDTHREADINYOUREMAILThanks,you'reonthelist!Error,pleasetryagainlater.SeeLatestIssue| Bysigningup,youagreetoourPrivacyPolicyandEuropeanusersagreetothedatatransferpolicy. FacebookTwitterWhatsappMessengerEmailRelatedCreditProducerandNarrator:ClarissaWeiVideographerandEditor:MarioChuiMastering:JoelRocheLatestFoodCultureIdentityTravel